Vintage Costume Jewelry: How to Identify and Value What You Find
Vintage costume jewelry is one of the most rewarding collecting categories available — accessible in price, visually spectacular, and full of genuinely rare and valuable finds hiding in plain sight. Estate sales, thrift stores, flea markets, and antique shops all yield remarkable pieces to those who know what to look for. The difference between a knowledgeable buyer and a casual browser can mean the difference between paying fifty cents and finding a piece worth several hundred dollars.
What Is Costume Jewelry?
Costume jewelry — also called fashion jewelry or dress jewelry — is distinguished from fine jewelry by its use of non-precious metals and simulated or semi-precious stones rather than gold, platinum, diamonds, and precious gems. It emerged as a distinct category in the early twentieth century, when designers including Coco Chanel began treating jewelry as a fashion accessory to be changed with one's outfit rather than a precious investment to be worn forever. The best vintage costume jewelry combines exceptional design with genuine craftsmanship.
Looking for Signatures and Hallmarks
The most important thing to check on any piece of vintage costume jewelry is whether it is signed. Signed pieces — those bearing the maker's name or hallmark, usually stamped or engraved on the back — are generally more valuable than unsigned pieces of equivalent quality and design. Major makers to look for include Miriam Haskell, Trifari, Monet, Napier, Coro, Kramer, Eisenberg, Weiss, and Schiaparelli. Signed pieces from these makers can command significant premiums, particularly in excellent condition.
Reading the Construction
Even unsigned pieces can be evaluated by the quality of their construction. Look at how stones are set — hand-set stones, where each stone is individually placed and secured, indicate higher quality than machine-set pieces. Examine the clasps on bracelets and necklaces — vintage clasps, particularly box clasps and fold-over clasps with safety catches, are indicators of quality. Check the finish on the metal — even plated pieces should show careful, even finishing without drips or rough spots.
Dating Vintage Pieces
Costume jewelry can often be approximately dated by its design vocabulary. Art Deco pieces from the 1920s and 30s show geometric forms and strong color contrasts. Retro pieces from the 1940s feature large, bold designs in rose and yellow gold-tone metals. Mid-century pieces from the 1950s tend toward delicate florals and rhinestone-heavy designs. 1960s pieces often reflect the Mod aesthetic — graphic, geometric, colorful. 1970s pieces embrace earth tones, natural materials, and larger, chunkier forms.
